Buy Internal Hard Disk
This is pricier than a lot of 6TB hard disks, even by the standards of those created specifically for use in NAS, as this is. Nonetheless, its high performance makes it a worthwhile investment: we measured it hitting a sequential read speed of 229MB/sec and a sequential write speed of 244MB/sec.
buy internal hard disk
That depends entirely on whether you want speed, capacity, or value, but the best hard drive overall is the Seagate BarraCuda for its excellent capacity for the price. If you're talking about the best hard drive by value, we'd pick the Western Digital WD Blue Desktop hard drive.
Traditional hard drives have a circular disk (platter) that stores your data - as the disk spins, the read-write arm reads data on the disc or writes data to it as it spins. Solid state drives (SSDs) have no moving parts, instead using NAND (Negative-AND) flash memory - the more memory chips an SSD has, the more storage capacity.
Choose the best hard drive for long-term file storage or network-attached storage (NAS) servers to ensure your files' safety. Purchasing a hard drive isn't just a matter of getting the right capacity for your storage needs. You also have to make sure that you're getting protection against inevitable hard drive failure.
Hard drives, also known as HDDs, are still reliable with their large capacities and generally lower prices than a solid state drive (SSD) with the same capacity. However, even the worst SSD will perform better than the best HDD in terms of file transfer rates and general performance just by virtue of the technology. The best SSD, therefore, is going to absolutely smoke the best hard drive in the world.
Named by the CTA as a CES 2020 Media Trailblazer for his science and technology reporting, John specializes in all areas of computer science, including industry news, hardware reviews, PC gaming, as well as general science writing and the social impact of the tech industry.
Technology that was previously reserved for enterprise customers and the PC performance elite has gained the common touch, with mainstream desktops and laptops now featuring SSDs rather than hard drives as primary storage choices. And adding an internal SSD to an older PC as a new boot drive remains a great, cost-effective upgrade. If you're still relying on spinning metal, you'll find it one of the easiest ways to an instant, undeniable speed boost.
This guide discusses the pros and cons of our top-rated internal SSDs. First, see our top tested picks, broken out below; in the buying guide that follows them, you'll learn how to sort through the different (and often confusing) terminologies associated with SSDs, as well as find out what you need to know when it comes to SSD pricing, speeds, durability, warranty durations, and more. Let's dig in.
First, some context on the difference between internal and external SSDs. Most of what you need to know is obvious from the name. "Internal" means the drive goes inside a desktop PC's or laptop's chassis, while "external" means it connects to a computer via a cable. But it's good to know some nuances regarding how fast each kind can be.
Internal SSDs are more complicated. You'll see them in three main physical forms: (1) 2.5-inch drives, (2) M.2 drives, and (3) add-in-board (AIB) SSDs. Within those three physical forms are some crucial variations, though. M.2 SSDs transfer data between the drive and computer via one of two bus types: the same Serial ATA bus used by 2.5-inch drives, or the PCI Express bus, the lanes and pathways of which can also be used by other hardware, such as graphics cards. (If you'd like a deep overview of all the SSD terms shoppers should know, check out our SSD dejargonizer for a full breakdown.)
When buying an internal SSD to upgrade or augment a system you own, you need to start by figuring out what your system can actually accept: a 2.5-inch SATA drive only? Does it have an M.2 slot? What length of M.2 drive can it take, and using which bus type? If you're upgrading a laptop, in most cases you'll have the option only to swap out the internal drive, not to add another. If you can't get the info off the web beforehand, or from the manufacturer, you'll need (in most cases) to open up your laptop to see whether you have upgradable storage in the first place. (That is, if you can open it at all.) With laptop upgrades, you typically have much less flexibility than upgrading a desktop; your only option might be buying a drive in a higher capacity than the existing one, since you'll likely have only one M.2 slot or 2.5-inch bay to work with. (See our favorite SSDs for laptop upgrades.) Some laptops, note, have the storage chips soldered down to the mainboard and aren't upgradable at all.
For a desktop, the right SSD to buy depends much more on what you are doing with your computer, and what your aim is. If you're building a new PC from scratch, you definitely want an internal M.2 or 2.5-inch SATA SSD as your boot drive nowadays. A 2.5-inch SATA drive might make sense only if you're upgrading or building from older hardware, because almost all new motherboards now have at least one M.2 slot of some kind, and these drives save lots of space in compact PC builds.
The 2.5-inch Serial ATA SSD is the most common type of internal solid-state drive you'll encounter. It was one of the earliest consumer-facing implementations of SSD technology and remains wildly popular, especially for upgrading older PCs. While the drive electronics are much smaller than 2.5 inches, its enclosure will measure a bit wider (actually 2.75 inches wide, despite the name), so it will fit into the same mounting brackets in your desktop or laptop used by 2.5-inch hard drives. That makes them your most likely choice for upgrading a platter-based boot drive in an older laptop. And almost any desktop PC nowadays will have 2.5-inch bays, or let you install a 2.5-inch drive in a 3.5-inch hard drive bay.
If you're upgrading an older laptop that has a 2.5-inch bay (most recent ones won't), you'll also want to account for the thickness of a 2.5-inch SSD. Almost all SSDs nowadays conform to a 7mm thickness, but older laptops with SATA hard drives may have drive bays with as much as 9.5mm clearance. Some SSD makers bundle a space-filling frame with their drives to keep a thinner 7mm drive from rattling around in a roomier bay. That's less common today than in years past, though.
If an M.2 drive you're looking at has one of these special, big heatsinks on it, make sure your desktop's motherboard has the clearance above and around it to accommodate its bulk. Some desktop motherboards situate an M.2 slot right alongside the ideal expansion slot you'd use for your graphics card, for example, and the hardware can collide. Laptop designs typically can't stomach a special, tall heat sink at all.
Serial ATA is both a bus type and a physical interface. SATA was the first interface that consumer SSDs used to connect to motherboards, like the hard drives that preceded them. It's still the primary cable-based interface you'll see for 2.5-inch solid-state drives.
A further wrinkle around the PCIe bus: All recent drives and slots support a transfer protocol known as NVMe (for Non-Volatile Memory Express). NVMe is a standard designed with flash storage in mind (opposed to the older AHCI, which was created for platter-based hard drives). In short, if you want the fastest consumer-ready SSD, get one with NVMe in the name. You'll also need to be sure that both the drive and the slot support NVMe. (That's because some early M.2 PCIe implementations, and drives, supported PCIe but not NVMe.)
Okay, you've figured out the bus type, interface, and form factor of the drive you need. The next factor to look at in determining your next SSD purchase is the capacity of the drive. A lightly used Windows or macOS machine shouldn't need a drive larger than 250GB or 500GB as the main boot drive, but gamers and content creators will need to get at least 1TB in order to store sufficient games and 4K video comfortably on their drives. On a desktop, they may also want to consider offloading their game library or video scratch disks onto cheaper, roomier traditional hard drives.
That said, with games in popular series like Call of Duty requiring over 100GB of space just for one title, the drive could end up full again faster than you can line up a sniper shot. These days, if you're looking to get just one drive (or maybe you have to, such as in a laptop), 2TB is the recommended size for gamers, while hardcore content creators who are dealing with 8K RAW footage will need far, far more. (A one-hour 8K RAW file will occupy 7.92 terabytes of space.)
But big drives don't come cheap (especially when you're talking about SSDs rather than hard drives), so knowing the value of an SSD and how much it costs per gigabyte is another important factor to weigh in your next upgrade. Whether it's 128GB or 4TB (or any capacity, really), the cost per gigabyte will give you a baseline to compare one drive against another and whether or not it looks like a good value based on its features and durability rating.
On average, an internal SSD can cost anything from 9 or 10 cents per gigabyte (with a budget drive) to 50-plus cents per gigabyte (say, for the pricey, specifically-for-filmmakers Sony SV-GS48). A general rule is that smaller drives (anything under 240GB) will cost more per gigabyte, getting cheaper as you go up to the 500GB, 1TB, and 2TB capacity tiers. Sometimes, though, a 2TB or 4TB drive will demand a price premium per gigabyte over the smaller-capacity models in a line. 041b061a72